Monday, March 25, 2019

Troubleshooting Fluid Transfer Pump

Troubleshooting Your Fluid Transfer Pump


Diagram of the Demand Style Diaphragm Pump Troubleshooting guide.
Troubleshooting Your Demand Style Diaphragm Pump

Not Priming any air leak or blockage along the suction line well prevent the pump from priming. Check the hose, hose clamps, fittings and strainer. If your suction line checks out, the cause usually centers on a problem with the valves. Open up your pump and verify the valve o-ring is in place and there is not any debree clogging the valves. Valves occasionally swell or lose their resilence. This type of valve damage is not always visible. Luckily valves are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace.

Low Pressure or Automatic Switch not shutting off. Slight swelling of the valves is the most common cause of low pressure or the pump not automatically shutting off. If after replacing the valve and the problem still persists, replace the pressure switch.

Leaking a ripped or cracked diaphragm is normally the cause of liquid leaking out of the pump. Additional damage to the bearings and motor can be avoided if you catch the leak early.

Pump does not respond to electrical power. Bypass the pressure switch by removing the two wires attached to the switch and connect them momentarily together. If the pump turns on your pressure switch requires replacement. If your pump remains lifeless after by passing the switch your motor needs replacing. note: some motors have replaceable brushes this may be your next step. If after replacing the brushes the motor remains lifeless replace the motor.
 Diagram of the Flexible Impeller Pump Troubleshooting guide.
Troubleshooting Your Flexible Impeller Pump




Low Flow will occur when the impeller is damaged. Bowed, missing worn or ripped blades will reduce flow. A worn cam, wearplate or coverplate will reduce flow. The replacement of these parts, when worn, normally cures the problem. Another cause of low flow is an air leak. This can occur anywhere along the suction line, within the sea strainer, or within the pump. Check all hoses, hose clamps, fittings, gaskets and the pump seal.

Not Priming of all the causes of low flow described above can also prevent the pump from priming.

How to prevent Impeller Failure, the main cause of premature impeller failure involves running the pump dry, with a restricted suction or blocked discharge. Confirm your inlet Seacock is in the open position before starting your engine. You would be surprised how often this simple step is forgotten. Regularly clean you suction strainer, and confirm all old impeller blades are removed when replacing your impeller. These steps will reduce the majority of the system low restrictions.
 Diagram of the Centrifugal Pump Troubleshooting guide.
Troubleshooting Your Centrifugal Pump

Not Priming(for self priming models) any air leak or blockage along the suction line well prevent the pump from priming. Check the hose, hose clamps, fittings and strainer. If your suction lines check out, verify pump shaft rotation and impeller spacing (impeller spacing within a self-priming centrifugal pump is critical). Self-priming centrifugal pumps require liquid in their housing to prime. If your pump has sat long enough for the liquid to evaporate, or your pump was just installed, verify that your pump housing has been filled. Also verify your shaft rotation is the correct way. A self-priming centrifugal pump will not prime when run in reverse.

Low flow the most common reason for centrifugal pumps to experience low flow upon inital start up is reverse rotation. A centrifugal pump will deliver 60% of their designed flow when rotated backwards. An air leak along the suction or line blockage anywhere in the system will reduce flow. Clear all lines, test for leaks, and verify your chosen line size, fittings and valves are not overly restricting your flow.

How to prevent premature seal failure the typical mechanical seal is designed to last thousands of hours. The common causes of premature seal failure include running the pump dry (closed seacock of blocked suction), cavitation (restricting the inlet flow to the pump by reduced line size, clogged strainer or partially blocked or collapsed suction line), thermal shock (a quick change in temperature that shatters the ceramic element of the seal, and often occurs when a pump has been running dry long enough to heat up the seal significantly before fluid is allowed to enter the pump), and deadheading (running the pump with a closed discharge for extended periods of time).
Diagram of the Gear Pump Troubleshooting guide.
Troubleshooting Your Gear Pump

Not Priming any air leak or blockage along the suction line well prevent the pump from priming. Check the hose, hose clamps, fittings and strainer. Dry gears will also reduce the pump's ability to prime. Simply pour a small quantity of your liquid into the suction or discharge sides of the pump and try again. If none of these ideas work, disassemble your pump to inspect for wear as described in the picture.  If excessive wear exists, you will need a rebuild kit or complete pump head.

How to prevent premature pump failure, gear pumps were designed to transfer or spay clean liquids. The close tolerances between both gears and the pump body are the key to it's ability to deliver a strong suction and high discharge pressure. However sand or debris will wear all contacting surfaces or even lock up the pump potentially causing motor or shaft failure.